Medical Miscellany Containing Culinary Recipes, ca. 1634

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[Library Title: Medical miscellany, ca.1634]

Manuscript Location
Folger Shakespeare Library, Manuscripts
Holding Library Call No.
E.a.5
Manuscript Cookbooks Survey Database ID#
376
Place of Origin
England ➔ London
Date of Composition
ca. 1634
Description
This book of 254 leaves (many written on both sides) appears to be in a single hand except for the final leaf. The bulk of the book comprises eight lectures on medical subjects interspersed with numerous medical recipes. The lectures are all dated 1634 and are attributed to four individuals identified only by their initials: J.B.M.D., T.J., W.B., and J.C. The lectures appear to have been prepared by members of the Society of Apothecaries, perhaps as inaugural lectures upon election to membership.

In addition to the medical material, the book includes a section of culinary recipes written on leaves 229 through 250. The culinary recipes are organized under seven heads: "Preserves, Conserves, Syrups, Candies, &c." (leaf 229r); "Marmalades" (leaf 235r); "Cakes of Fruite & Candid Flowers, Leaches, &c."(leaf 236r); "Conserves & Syrupps" (leaf 340r); "Receipts of Cookery" (leaf 242r); "Pastes or Bisquettes" (leaf 245r); and "Cheese Severall Ways" (leaf 250r).

Many of the culinary recipes are of interest. The first section includes sugared preserves of artichokes (leaf 229r) and "peascods" (leaf 232v), both which were later customarily preserved by pickling. The third section ("Cakes of Fruite . . .") comprises banqueting stuffs. Most of these dishes were conventional for banquets, such as the sugared fresh cheese curds outlined under "To make a good Banquetting Dish" (leaf 237v), but two were more commonly served in the principal courses of dinner: "Dish of Creame" (leaf 238r), which is actually a baked marrow pudding, and "Almond Tart" (leaf 238r). This section also contains a recipe for historic bread crumb gingerbread outlined under the title "Drye Leach" (leaf 237v). In Delights for Ladies (1611), a highly popular book of banqueting recipes, Hugh Plat mentions that gingerbread was sometimes called dry leach at this time. But gingerbread recipes by that name do not appear in other cookbooks.

Among the "Receipts of Cookery" are unusual recipes for "Good Whyte Pott" (with sliced lemons in the custard, baked in pastry) and "Sawce for Fish" (butter, egg yolks, and grated brown bread, simmered until thick). "Pastes or Bisquettes" contains a recipe for almond "Jumboldes" made with "a grated shortcake" instead of the usual bread crumbs, followed by a conventional recipe for ring-shaped cookie-like jumbles under the uncoventional title "Sugar Rings" (both leaf 245r). There is also a recipe for the ancient sort of cracknells that were first boiled and then baked (leaf 247r), and a rare recipe for the fine white bread called manchet ("Fyne Manchett in Rolls," leaf 247v). Finally, "Cheese Several Ways" includes a recipe "To make fresh cheese without Rennet" (leaf 250r), which is a false cheese made from curdled custard, drained of the "whey." Custard cheese was typically served as loose curds (like cottage cheese), but in this recipe it is pressed in a cheese vat for an hour or two to make it solid, like true cheese.